The Pocket RV Tech helps RV owners work through problems with calm, structured guidance in plain English — so you can understand what the symptom likely means, what to check next, and when it's time to bring in hands-on help.
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You mentioned a gas smell, smoke, sparks, or burning smell. Do not continue troubleshooting. Do not use any switches or outlets.
Get everyone out of the RV. Ventilate immediately. Contact emergency services or a qualified technician.
This is one of the most common situations RV owners run into. Most of the time it's something simple. We'll check the easy things first — one step at a time.
Pick the option that sounds closest to your situation.
Most total blackouts at a campsite come down to one thing — the RV isn't receiving power from the pedestal. This is very common.
Why this matters: Your RV uses campsite power (shore power) for outlets and appliances. If it's not connected, nothing 120V will work.
It should be fully plugged into the campsite pedestal. Push it in firmly — a loose plug is more common than you'd think.
Connect the power cord fully to the pedestal. Push it in firmly — it should seat all the way and feel secure.
At the campsite power pedestal, there's a breaker for your outlet. It can trip from a surge or previous camper — and it looks like it's still on when it isn't.
It's a switch or breaker near the outlets on the post.
Don't just check it — reset it. A tripped breaker often looks "on" but sits in the middle.
At the campsite power pedestal, there's a breaker for your outlet. It can trip — and it looks like it's still on when it isn't.
A tripped pedestal breaker is the most common cause of total power loss at a campsite. You're good to go.
Inside your RV there's a breaker panel. A tripped breaker stops power to everything downstream — even if shore power is fine.
Check near the entry door, under a dinette seat, in a bedroom cabinet, or behind a panel near the water heater.
A tripped breaker sits in the middle — not fully on or off. Reset it fully off first, then back on.
A tripped interior breaker is common after a surge or overload. Power should be restored to those circuits now.
Most RVs have a battery disconnect switch. If it's off, your 12V system won't work — even with shore power connected. This is very commonly left off after storage or towing.
Common locations: battery compartment, entry step area, outside storage bay, or a panel near the main entry.
Some are a physical knife switch, some are a push button, some are a rotary knob. It should be in the connected/on position.
Battery disconnect left off after travel or storage — happens all the time. Your 12V system should be back online now.
You've checked the main causes. Here's what's most likely happening at this point:
Low battery voltage can prevent the RV from responding even when shore power is connected.
The converter turns shore power into 12V and charges your batteries. If it's failed, your 12V side won't work.
Check the main 12V fuses near the battery bank — a blown fuse here can cut the whole 12V system.
Shore power amperage you're using · whether the converter fan runs at all · approximate age of your batteries. This saves time on the service call.
This is very common. Your RV lights and outlets don't always run the same way. We'll check the simple things first.
In most RVs, lights can run on battery power. Most outlets need shore power or inverter power. That means part of the RV can work while another part does not.
Your lights may still work from battery power. Your outlets usually need shore power. Plug in your power cord, then test an outlet again.
Lights run on batteries, outlets need shore power. Very common mix-up.
The campground power post usually has its own breaker. If it's off or tripped, your RV may be plugged in but still not getting power.
It will be labeled by amp (30A or 50A). It should be in the full ON position.
A tripped breaker often looks "on" but sits slightly in the middle. Always reset it.
The RV was plugged in, but campground power wasn't actually getting through. You found a very common problem.
Look for an outlet with small TEST and RESET buttons. It's often in the bathroom, kitchen, or outside compartment. One tripped GFCI can cut power to several outlets.
Check every room — bathroom and kitchen are the most common spots.
It should click in and stay. If it pops back out, there's still a fault on that circuit.
That reset outlet was protecting the others. One of the most common outlet problems in an RV — and one of the easiest to fix.
The main breaker panel controls 120V power in the RV. A tripped breaker can shut off outlets in one area or throughout the whole RV.
Near the entry door, under a dinette seat, in a bedroom cabinet, or behind a panel near the water heater.
A tripped breaker sits halfway — not fully on or off. Flip it fully OFF first, then back ON.
A tripped breaker was stopping power to those outlets. Well done.
Your lights working tells us the battery side is at least partly active. Since outlets still don't work after the main checks, this may need a technician to look at it in person.
Lights work but outlets don't. You already checked: shore power connection, pedestal breaker, reset outlet (GFCI), and main breaker. That information saves time and helps them arrive prepared.
AC units and microwaves draw a lot of power. They need a dedicated breaker — and enough amperage from your campsite hookup to run at all.
On 30-amp service, you have roughly 3,600 watts total. A single rooftop AC unit uses 1,500–2,000 watts. Running the AC and microwave together can easily trip the breaker.
Electric water heater, second AC, electric heat strip — turn them off before trying the AC or microwave.
The AC unit usually has its own breaker in the panel — look for one labeled AC, Air, or by roof unit location.
On 50-amp service you have plenty of power for AC and microwave simultaneously. If they're still not working, the issue is likely a tripped breaker or a fault in the appliance itself.
In your RV breaker panel — flip it fully off, then back on.
Make sure the AC is set to a temperature that requires cooling and the fan is set to AUTO or ON.
If you've confirmed power is available and the breaker is fine, the issue is likely inside the appliance itself or in the wiring feeding it.
Note: the exact appliance not working, your shore power amperage, whether the appliance makes any sound when you try it, and any error codes on the thermostat or display.
The campsite water spigot valve — turn it fully on counterclockwise.
Walk the hose and straighten any kinks. A single kink can stop flow completely.
Most RVers use an inline pressure regulator. If it's failed or clogged, it can block flow entirely. Try removing it temporarily to test.
When on city water, the pump should be off.
Check the tank monitor panel. A pump running a dry tank will burn out — so this check matters.
Look for a pump switch on the control panel — often labeled "Water Pump" or "Pump." It must be on for tank water to work.
Turn on a faucet and listen. You should hear a brief hum or buzzing when the pump kicks on.
You've worked through the common causes. At this point the issue may be a failed pump, a closed valve in an unusual location, or a plumbing fault that needs hands-on diagnosis.
Be ready to say: city water or tank, whether the pump runs or not, your water tank level, and whether the RV was recently winterized.
Find the 12V fuse panel and look for a fuse labeled "Water Pump" or "Pump." A blown fuse is cheap and easy to replace.
The pump runs on 12V. Make sure the battery disconnect is on and batteries have charge.
The pump running is actually a good sign — it means power is reaching it. Most "pump runs but nothing comes out" situations have straightforward causes.
The pump pulls water from your tank. If the tank is empty, nothing will come out — even if the pump runs perfectly.
Fill your fresh water tank, then turn on a faucet and test again.
When air gets trapped in the water lines, the pump runs continuously but can't build pressure. This is very common after filling an empty tank.
Turn the hot and cold on fully and let it run for at least one full minute.
You may hear spitting or see bursts of air. That's normal — it's the air being pushed out.
A clogged or blocked inline water filter can restrict flow enough that the pump can't push water through. Look near the pump in the utility bay or under a cabinet.
Look for a switch labeled "Water Pump" on your control panel.
Find your 12V fuse panel and look for a fuse labeled "Water Pump."
The pump runs on 12V. If the battery disconnect is off, the pump won't get power at all.
This is likely a deeper issue — a failed pump, a stuck valve, or a plumbing fault that needs hands-on inspection.
Pump runs but no water comes out. You already checked: tank level, air purging, inline filter, pump switch, fuse, and battery disconnect.
Battery complaints are the most common thing I troubleshoot. And the most common mistake is jumping straight to "my battery is bad" — when the real problem is that the battery was never being charged properly to begin with.
When your RV is stored, is the battery disconnect switch turned OFF? Many RVs still draw a small amount of power even when everything looks "off."
Turn the battery disconnect OFF every time you store the RV. Then recharge the battery fully and test again after a week.
Even with the disconnect ON, some items draw power constantly:
Always-on safety device. Draws a small but constant amount of 12V power — this is normal.
Keeps presets and clock active — small but constant draw.
Some stay awake and draw power even when not in use. A faulty board can draw far more than normal.
Age matters more than people think. A battery doesn't stop working — it just stops holding a useful amount of charge. A 5-year-old battery might still read 12.6V fully charged and go completely flat in a few hours.
This alone prevents most storage drain problems.
A partially charged battery deteriorates faster.
At that age, a new battery often resolves persistent drain issues immediately.
Battery drains while sitting. You already checked: disconnect habit, common parasitic draws, resting voltage, and battery age. Whether it drains with the disconnect ON or OFF.
When a battery drains while plugged in, this is where I go first: the converter. Not the battery. The converter is supposed to be keeping the battery charged — if it's not doing its job, the battery is working alone the whole time you're plugged in.
Dimming 12V lights while on shore power is a reliable sign the converter isn't keeping the battery charged.
The converter usually has a small cooling fan. Completely silent when plugged in usually means it's not operating.
Converters often have a dedicated fuse. A blown fuse cuts all charging output completely.
A converter that isn't charging means the battery is doing all the work — even while you're plugged in. The good news: this is a well-understood and fixable problem.
Battery drains while plugged into shore power. Lights dim when using 12V items. Converter fan may not be running. You already ruled out: pedestal power, cord connection. Battery age if known.
The furnace blower fan draws significant 12V power every time the heat cycles on. Cold nights with a running furnace can drain a battery by morning.
An inverter running appliances off battery can drain it very quickly. Even when idle, many inverters draw power just being on.
Incandescent fixtures draw much more power than LED. Multiple lights running overnight adds up fast.
White or bluish-green buildup on the terminals is corrosion. It needs to be cleaned off.
They should be completely firm. Any movement means the connection is loose.
Corrosion can be cleaned with a wire brush or a baking soda and water mix. Tighten any loose clamps after cleaning. Then retest.
Battery drains while in use. Already ruled out: shore power delivery, converter operation, high-load items, terminal condition. Whether plugged in or on battery only. Battery age if known.
Take a breath. The fan running is actually good news — it tells me the furnace is getting power and the blower circuit is working. We're not dealing with a completely dead system. The problem is in the ignition sequence.
First question I always ask: is the propane actually on? The furnace fan will run on 12V no matter what — but if there's no propane, there's no flame. Ever.
Turn on the propane valve or refill the tank. Then set the thermostat a few degrees above the current temperature and wait about 30 seconds for the furnace to cycle.
Try the stove burner or water heater. If they also fail to work, the problem may be propane delivery — not the furnace itself.
Main valve should be fully open (counterclockwise). Tank gauge should show fuel.
Some regulators have a safety trip. Turn all appliances off, close the tank valve, wait 30 seconds, then slowly reopen.
RV furnaces need good 12V power even when burning propane. Low battery voltage can let the fan run but prevent the ignition sequence from completing. I've seen battery voltage be the hidden furnace killer many times.
Charge or shore-power the battery first, then try the furnace again. A lot of furnace "failures" resolve completely once voltage is restored.
There's a little safety device inside the furnace called a sail switch — a small flap that needs to deflect in the airflow before the furnace will open the gas valve. No confirmed airflow, no ignition. I've cleared a bird nest from a furnace vent and had the furnace fire right up.
Look on the exterior of the RV for the furnace vent. Make sure it isn't blocked by debris, mud, or a pest nest.
The furnace pulls air from inside. Check that the return grill isn't blocked by furniture, bedding, or stored items.
Fan runs but no heat. You already confirmed: propane supply is good, other propane appliances work, battery voltage is adequate, vents are clear. Whether you hear any clicking. This rules out the beginner-level causes and points directly to the ignition or control sequence.
If the furnace starts the blower and then gives up, it may not be completing its normal startup sequence. Check battery voltage and airflow first.
Low battery voltage is a common reason the furnace starts its sequence but shuts down before completing it.
Look for debris, insects, or nesting blocking the furnace vent on the outside of the RV.
The return grill should be free of obstruction.
Fan starts then shuts off before heating. You already confirmed: battery voltage is adequate, vents are clear, and the furnace shuts down consistently. Whether you hear any clicking before shutdown.
Clicking is actually useful diagnostic information. It tells me the control board is running the full sequence — it's gotten past the airflow check, it's trying to fire the igniter. The flame just isn't catching.
Low propane pressure — especially in cold weather — can cause ignition attempts to fail.
Low voltage can produce a weak spark that won't reliably ignite the burner.
After repeated failed attempts, some furnaces enter a lockout state. Turning the thermostat off for 30 seconds then back on can reset it.
Furnace clicks during startup but never ignites. You confirmed: propane is adequate, battery voltage is good, and thermostat was cycled. Number of clicks before shutdown if you noticed. This points directly to the igniter, flame sensor, or gas valve.
Take a breath. When a water heater won't run on gas or electric, that's actually useful information — both modes failing at the same time tells us something specific. Let's work through it.
Open the exterior access panel and take a look before you start testing components. What you see in there can tell you a lot.
Here's what I look for first:
Burnt, crispy, or damaged wiring on the thermostat is going to cause exactly the symptom you're dealing with. If the wiring looks compromised, that's your starting point — not the board, not the components. Fix the wiring first.
Green or white buildup on terminals causes resistance and can interrupt the circuit completely.
Burn marks or discoloration on the control board are important — and they tell you something else needs to be checked before the board is replaced.
Burnt or damaged wiring on the thermostat needs to be addressed before you go any further. Running the heater in this condition can create a bigger problem than no hot water.
Once the wiring is repaired or replaced, also plan to replace the ECO and thermostat together — they're both thermal disks and if the wiring got that hot, those components have likely been stressed too.
Water heaters are not all the same. Before going further, find the full model number on the data tag inside the access panel.
The data tag is usually on the inside edge of the panel door or on the heater body itself.
Write down or photograph the complete model number. Every character matters.
Atwood and Suburban are the most common. Knowing your brand and full model number is what gets you to the right parts and the right diagnosis.
Not every RV water heater has a reset button. Some units use a mechanical thermostat disk and an ECO mounted on the front of the heater instead.
Locate the reset button on the outside of the heater. Press it firmly — you should feel or hear it click. Then try the heater again on both gas and electric.
A high limit that trips repeatedly is a symptom, not the problem. Don't keep resetting it.
The switch itself may have failed and is tripping without an actual overheat condition.
If the thermostat isn't shutting the heater off at the right temperature, the high limit does it instead.
A failing electric element can cause erratic temperature behavior that triggers the high limit.
Water heater high limit trips repeatedly. Full model number. Whether it happens on gas, electric, or both. Whether the heater produces any heat before tripping.
On units without a reset button, the ECO and thermostat are both thermal disk components mounted on the front of the heater. Both are common fail points.
Both are disk-shaped components. The ECO is the Energy Cut Off — a safety device. The thermostat controls operating temperature.
Heat damage on either disk is a strong indicator of failure.
These components are not universal. Your full model number is what gets you the right kit.
If wiring and thermal components are fine and the heater still won't run, the control board is next. But before you replace it, check the gas valve solenoid first.
If the board shows heat damage, the solenoid is a strong suspect. Test or replace the solenoid before installing a new board.
If you have a multimeter, confirm voltage is reaching the board. No voltage points to a wiring or fuse issue — not a board failure.
Control boards are model-specific. The wrong board won't work and may not be returnable once installed.
Water heater won't run on gas or electric. Full model number. Wiring condition. Whether you've already replaced the ECO and thermostat kit. Whether the board shows burn marks. Whether you've checked 12V at the board.
Electric working tells us the board and 12V power are okay. The problem is specific to the gas side.
Is the propane valve open and the tank not empty? Try a stove burner to confirm propane is flowing.
Do you hear clicking? Clicking means the igniter is firing — but the flame isn't catching. No clicking means the ignition sequence isn't starting at all.
A cracked or fouled electrode won't produce a reliable spark.
If propane is confirmed and the igniter is working, the gas valve solenoid may not be opening. This is a component test that requires a multimeter.
Electric mode works, gas won't ignite. Full model number. Whether you hear clicking during ignition attempts. Whether other propane appliances work.
The electric element has its own breaker in the RV panel. Check it and reset it before anything else.
The electric element needs 120V shore power to operate. It will not run on battery alone.
If power is confirmed and the element still won't heat, the element itself may have failed.
Gas mode works fine, electric mode not heating. Full model number. Whether the breaker was tripped. Whether you're on shore power.
Location of the leak matters. Where it's coming from tells you what's failing.
The pressure relief valve is a safety device — it releases water if pressure or temperature inside the tank gets too high. Some dripping during heating is normal. Constant dripping or a steady stream is not.
Normal operation — thermal expansion causes slight pressure release as water heats.
The valve may have failed and is no longer seating properly. A failed relief valve needs replacement. Do not plug or cap it.
Hand-tighten first, then snug with a wrench. Don't overtighten plastic fittings — they crack.
If the fitting was recently worked on, thread tape or sealant may not have been applied correctly.
Plastic fittings crack from overtightening or freeze damage. A cracked fitting needs replacement — it won't seal with tape.
A leak from the tank body — not a fitting, not the relief valve — usually means the tank has failed. This is most commonly caused by corrosion from age or freeze damage.
Leak from the tank body — not a fitting or relief valve. Full model number and age of the unit if known.
You worked through it the right way. Make a note of what was found and what was replaced — that information is useful the next time something comes up.
Almost every RV owner I've talked to has had this happen at some point. The tank reads full, you just dumped it. Here's the honest answer: almost nothing is wrong with the tank. The sensors inside it are dirty. That's it.
The sensors in a black tank are just probe points on the tank wall. Once waste residue or toilet paper coats those probes, they stay "in contact" permanently — which reads as full regardless of what's actually in the tank. It's a basic design limitation that affects almost every black tank eventually.
Then dump again. If your RV has a built-in tank flush system, use it — let it run for several minutes before dumping.
Add water through the toilet, then drive the RV around the block or let it sit for a few hours. Movement helps break up buildup against the tank walls and sensor probes.
Real talk: most experienced RV owners I know don't trust their black tank gauge at all. They dump by schedule — every 3 to 5 days for two people — rather than waiting for the monitor. A falsely full gauge is annoying. An actually-full tank with nowhere to go is much worse.
Dump before you think you need to, not after.
Multiple tank treatments and rinses over several dump cycles can sometimes restore sensor accuracy gradually.
Aftermarket external sensors mounted outside the tank are much more reliable than internal probes.
It should pull firmly to a fully extended stop. Black tank first, then grey.
Strong flow with a full reading usually points to sensors. Weak flow usually points to a real blockage or partial drainage.
Add water to the tank and let it sit for several hours or overnight. Then dump again. Movement sloshes the water against the walls and helps break up the blockage.
Black tank not draining fully. You already tried: valve check, soak and rinse. Flow is weak or stopped. They'll likely inspect the gate valve and check for a pyramid blockage near the outlet.
When a leveling system gives no response at all, the problem is almost always a power issue — not the jacks or control board.
Is the battery disconnect switch in the ON position? Most leveling systems are wired directly to the battery.
Check the fuse panel and any dedicated breaker for the leveling system. A blown fuse here cuts all power to the controller and jacks.
A leveling system may refuse to operate below a certain voltage threshold.
Does the control panel light up at all? A panel that shows nothing is either unpowered or has a failed display.
A blown fuse or disconnected power source is the most common cause of a completely unresponsive leveling system. Restore power and retest before assuming anything deeper is wrong.
If voltage is reaching the system but nothing responds, the most likely next step is a wiring connection issue or a controller that has stopped communicating.
No panel response, no movement. You already checked: battery disconnect, fuses, battery voltage. Panel does not light up.
Before anything else — and I mean before you touch a single setting or call anyone — do this reset. It solves the problem more often than every other step combined.
Press and hold RETRACT until all jacks stop moving completely.
Keep holding the button for 3–5 seconds after movement stops. This ensures the system registers the fully-retracted position.
On a fifth wheel, hook to the truck before retracting landing legs. This removes the load and allows the legs to retract properly.
A very unlevel site can push jacks to near full extension on one side.
Leveling pads left under a foot pad will physically prevent retraction.
If one jack is slow, stops early, or makes a different sound, that points the problem to that specific jack.
When one jack behaves differently, check the drive side before assuming physical damage. A bent jack is possible and worth ruling out — but only after checking the drive side.
A loose or corroded connector can cause one jack to behave differently from the others.
Look for bowing, twisting, fresh scrapes along the shaft, or damage to the foot. A bent jack is often visible.
A single slow or non-responsive jack with no electrical fault usually points to an internal seal leak.
One jack out of four is behaving differently. You already tried the known starting point reset. Describe which jack and what it does.
All jacks move but system won't complete retraction. You already tried: known starting point reset, checked for site/pad interference, confirmed all jacks move similarly.
The most important step for a system that stops mid-cycle. It re-establishes the position reference the controller relies on.
On a fifth wheel, hook the truck before retracting the landing legs.
Press and hold RETRACT. Let all jacks travel to their full-up position.
Keep holding 3–5 seconds after jacks stop.
After the reset, test the full cycle again.
Before you assume something is bent or broken, hear me out. This error comes up frequently on sites that are more unlevel than the system expects, and it also comes up when the system simply doesn't have a proper reference point. I've seen this error clear completely after a proper retract-and-hold reset on jacks that were working perfectly.
A very steep site can push a jack to full extension while still not leveling the coach. The fix is repositioning the RV, not the jacks.
Fully retract all jacks, hold several seconds after they stop, then retry.
With leveling not running, check voltage at the battery. Should be 12.4V or above at rest.
If voltage is low while plugged in, the converter may not be operating correctly.
Corroded or loose battery terminals cause significant voltage drop under load. The leveling system pulls enough current to expose this immediately.
Auto-level has a finite travel range. Use drive-up blocks under the low side tires and retry.
Fully retract, hold after stop, then run auto level again. A confused position reference is a very common cause of this error.
If the coach appears level visually but the system still reports unable to level, the sensor reading the tilt may be giving incorrect data.
System starts then stops mid-cycle, no error code displayed. You already tried: known starting point reset. It happens consistently. Note which direction (extending or retracting) the stop occurs.
Auto level failure is almost always one of three things: the site is beyond the system's range, the system has lost its position reference, or the sensor reading tilt is giving wrong data.
Use drive-up blocks under the low side tires to reduce the slope before running auto level.
Fully retract, hold retract several seconds after stopping, then retry auto level.
On a fifth wheel, connect to the truck before performing the reset.
Is it in the ON position? Landing leg motors are high-draw and often wired directly.
Check the main fuse panel and any inline fuses in the landing leg wiring.
If there's a rocker switch or handheld controller, check that it's functioning. A failed switch is a common, easy replacement.
Landing leg motors stall at low voltage. Check that battery voltage is at or above 12.2V before assuming the motor or switch has failed.
No response from landing legs. You already checked: battery disconnect, fuses, voltage, switch function.
When one leg moves and one doesn't, people usually assume the worst — bent leg, physical damage. But I check the drive side first, because that's where the problem is more often.
Many fifth wheel landing leg systems use a single motor driving both legs through a cross-shaft. If that connection has stripped or disconnected, that leg won't move.
A failed or stripped gearbox allows the motor to spin without the leg moving.
If it looks fine, check the motor connection and wiring harness for that specific leg.
One landing leg moves, the other doesn't. Motor runs, no sign of bent or damaged leg. Describe which leg and what it does.
Landing leg motors draw a lot of current. Low voltage (below 12.0V) causes labored, slow movement and stalling. Charge or replace the battery before anything else.
On a fifth wheel, trying to retract the legs while the full pin weight of the trailer is resting on them will cause extreme strain. Hitch to the truck first.
Mud, debris, or ice around the leg travel path can cause resistance. Clear the area and retry.
If you can hear the motor running but the legs aren't moving, the drive connection between the motor and the legs has failed. The motor is spinning — but nothing is turning the legs.
If the gears inside have stripped, the motor spins freely without driving the legs.
Some systems use a sacrificial shear pin designed to break under overload to protect the motor.
The coupling between the motor/gearbox and the cross-shaft may have stripped.
Motor runs audibly, legs don't move. Likely gearbox or stripped drive connection.
On a fifth wheel, trying to retract while the legs are still carrying the full trailer weight causes binding. Hitch first.
Look along the full length of the leg travel path. A bent or bowed leg will be visible.
A leg that was driven over or caught on something may be misaligned with its mounting even if it isn't bent.
Landing legs bind or retract unevenly. Describe what you saw during the visual inspection — whether the leg looks straight, bent, or misaligned.
No problem. Start with these three quick checks — they solve more problems than you'd expect.
Often left off after storage or towing. Check the battery compartment or entry area.
Confirm the cord is fully seated and the pedestal breaker hasn't tripped.
Write down any codes you see — they're valuable for diagnosis.