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Most total blackouts at a campsite come down to one thing — the RV isn't receiving power from the pedestal. This is very common.

Connect the power cord fully to the pedestal. Push it in firmly — it should seat all the way and feel secure.

At the campsite power pedestal, there's a breaker for your outlet. It can trip from a surge or previous camper — and it looks like it's still on when it isn't.

Inside your RV there's a breaker panel. A tripped breaker stops power to everything downstream — even if shore power is fine.

Most RVs have a battery disconnect switch. If it's off, your 12V system won't work — even with shore power connected. This is very commonly left off after storage or towing.

You've checked the main causes. Here's what's most likely happening at this point:

This is very common. Your RV lights and outlets don't always run the same way. We'll check the simple things first.

In most RVs, lights can run on battery power. Most outlets need shore power or inverter power. That means part of the RV can work while another part does not.

If you're not plugged into shore power, your outlets usually won't work. Let's start there.

Your lights may still work from battery power. Your outlets usually need shore power. Plug in your power cord, then test an outlet again.

The campground power post usually has its own breaker. If it's off or tripped, your RV may be plugged in but still not getting power.

The pedestal is the power box at your campsite — the post you plugged your cord into. Open the cover and look for a breaker switch, similar to a house breaker.

After checking or resetting the pedestal breaker — do your outlets work now?

One reset outlet can shut off several outlets in your RV. This is another very common cause of dead outlets that most people miss.

Look for an outlet with small TEST and RESET buttons. It's often in the bathroom, kitchen, or outside compartment.

Press the RESET button firmly. Then test the outlets again.

If your RV has an inverter, it may affect certain outlets. We'll check that next.

Some RVs use an inverter to power certain outlets. If it's off or not passing power through, some outlets may stop working.

Make sure the inverter is powered on and doesn't show a fault or error light. Then test the outlet again.

The main breaker panel controls 120V power in the RV. A tripped breaker can shut off outlets in one area or throughout the whole RV.

It usually looks like a small house-style breaker panel inside the RV. Check for any breaker not fully in the ON position.

Your lights working tells us the battery side is at least partly active. Since outlets still don't work after the main checks, this may need a technician to look at it in person.

AC units and microwaves draw a lot of power. They need a dedicated breaker — and enough amperage from your campsite hookup to run at all.

On 30-amp service, you have roughly 3,600 watts total. A single rooftop AC unit uses 1,500–2,000 watts. Running the AC and microwave together can easily trip the breaker.

On 50-amp service you have plenty of power for AC and microwave simultaneously. If they're still not working, the issue is likely a tripped breaker or a fault in the appliance itself.

If you've confirmed power is available and the breaker is fine, the issue is likely inside the appliance itself or in the wiring feeding it.

RVs can use two different water sources. The checks are different for each — pick the one that applies.

If the pump runs but nothing comes out, the most likely causes are a dry tank, a closed valve somewhere in the line, or a winterization bypass that wasn't reversed.

If you don't hear any pump sound, the pump isn't getting power. This is usually a simple fuse or the pump switch not being engaged.

You've worked through the common causes. At this point the issue may be a failed pump, a closed valve in an unusual location, or a plumbing fault that needs hands-on diagnosis.

No problem. Start with these three quick checks — they solve more problems than you'd expect.

Still stuck? Find your specific issue below:

Take a breath — this is usually something simple. We'll check the most common causes step by step.

The pump pulls water from your tank. If the tank is empty, nothing will come out — even if the pump runs perfectly.

Fill your fresh water tank, then turn on a faucet and test again.

When you open a faucet, listen carefully to the pump. Does it run non-stop without stopping, or does it run briefly then stop?

When air gets trapped in the water lines, the pump runs continuously but can't build pressure to push water out. This is very common after filling an empty tank.

A clogged or blocked inline water filter can restrict flow enough that the pump can't push water through. This is easy to miss.

The inline water filter is usually near the water pump or along the water line coming from the tank. It's a small canister — often white or clear.

If the pump runs weakly or barely at all, it may not be getting enough power — or the pump switch may not be fully on.

This is likely a deeper issue — a failed pump, a stuck valve, or a plumbing fault that needs hands-on inspection. You've already done more than most RV owners would.